Filled with radical art, architecture and style yet grounded in centuries of culture, dynamic Barcelona has been seducing its visitors for decades, writes Michael Romei.

The unforgettable water, light and music display at the Palau Nacional. (Image: S Serin)

Barcelona has always been slightly surreal. The inspiration for artists including Salvador Dali, Joan Miró and Pablo Picasso, and a living monument to the bizarrely wonderful architect Antoni Gaudi, it has been described by locals as the ‘great enchantress’. A pulsating, sun-kissed place that displays a sense of style unrivalled in the rest of Spain, it is little wonder that Woody Allen – who for so long had been composing visual odes to his beloved New York – decided to venture to Barcelona to film his recent offering, Vicky Christina Barcelona. With a delight that he hasn’t shown in years, Allen presents an upscale tourist fantasy that actually lives up to the hype – one that suggests rather than being an enchantress, Barcelona might better be described as the great seductress.

In order to best soak up the Catalan charm and take in the glory of its architectural treasures, Barcelona is best explored on foot, so be sure to pack your joggers. However, your legs will only get you so far, making some form of public transport necessary. Lucky for Barcelona’s tourists, the city’s metro system is one of the best in Europe, being both clean and efficient. For those wanting to cover a lot of ground, purchase the tourist travelcard (approx. €10).

An ideal starting point in Barcelona is La Rambla. This stunning, one-kilometre tree-lined walkway is the city’s most famous street, and (as evidenced by the crowds) is adored by tourists. In addition to the saliva-inducing designer stores and top-notch restaurants, La Rambla also boasts an array of market stalls (including those selling a mind-boggling selection of live animals) and an army of street performers (mimes are Barcelona’s specialty) unlike you’ve ever seen. Begin your walk at the Plaça de Catalunya and work your way down to Port Vell, Barcelona’s palm-fringed (and slightly tacky) seafront that has thrived since its Miami-themed makeover in the 1990s.

A street performer on La Rambla. (Image: S Serin)

To the east of La Rambla is the historic section of Barcelona known as the Barri Gòtic. A labyrinth of interconnecting streets and squares, it boasts structures that date back to the 13th Century. The most impressive of these is La Seu Cathedral (7.45am-7.45pm, €4), which is one of the Spain’s most awe-inspiring examples of Gothic architecture. For those who are around on the weekend between Feb-July or Sep-Nov, grab one of Barcelona’s traditional hot chocolates (and don’t forget the churros for dipping!), best sipped in the cathedral square while watching the sardana – the Spanish national dance performed by an array of senior citizens who will bring most onlookers to shame (6pm Saturday and noon Sunday). For lovers of Picasso, the nearby Museu Picasso (10am-8pm, €9) is a must, exhibiting the master’s works from the Blue Period (1901-1904).

For those with a penchant for museums (or a fabulous view), some of Barcelona’s best offerings are to be found on Montjuïc, the hill overlooking the city from the southwest. The best way to get there is to head to Plaça d’Espanya and then take the stairs (or even better, the escalator!) up the hill. Once there, you’ll immediately be drawn to the imposing Palau Nacional (built in 1640), which houses the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Tues-Sat, 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-2.30pm, €8.50). With a collection ranging from Romanesque murals to Gothic frescoes to modern Catalan art, there’s something for everyone here. If you are visiting on a Friday or Saturday night (from Oct-June between 7pm and 8.30pm, July-Sep between 9.30pm and 11.30pm), be sure to stick around for the unforgettable water, light and music display that is held at the terraces below the Palau.

Also located on Montjuïc is the Fundació Joan Miró (July-Sep 10am-8pm, Oct-Jun10am-7pm, €8), which houses a lovely collection of paintings, drawings and tapestries by this Catalan master known for his primary colours and organic shapes. The kids will enjoy the Poble Espanyol (hours vary, €8 adult, €5.50 for kids), which reconstructs Spanish architecture from various regions, while sports lovers should walk to the other side of Montjuïc where they’ll find Barcelona’s impressive Olympic Park, site of the 1992 Games.

But let’s be honest, the reason most tourists flock to Barcelona these days is to pay homage to the city’s best-known resident, the legendary architect Antoni Gaudi. His most remarkable project, the Sagrada Familia (Oct-Mar 9am-6pm, April-Sep 9am-8pm, metro stop Sagrada Familia), is actually still a work in progress. Despite construction having started in 1882, the church won’t be completed until 2026 – understandable when considering it is set to have 18 towers – 12 for the apostles, four for the evangelists, one for Mary and one for Jesus. Entrance is €11, and an additional €2.5 to ascend the tower (beware the queues!) and €4 for the audio guide – culture isn’t always cheap, after all.

Gaudi's masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia. (Image: M Romei)

Ten minutes walk from the Sagrada Familia along Carrer de Provença will see you reach Gaudi’s last secular building, the Casa Milà (Nov-Feb 9am-6.30pm, Mar-Oct 9am-8pm, €8, metro stop Diagonal) or La Pedrera. Designed for a wealthy businessman, it is a curvy limestone house with an array of chimneys that have been decorated in various fragments of marble, glass bottles and tiles. A visit inside will treat you to a look at the life of Barcelona’s first son, or if it’s more Gaudi architecture you’re after take the short walk south to Casa Batlló (every day 9am-8pm, €16.50) on Passeig de Gràcia. Inside you can tour the sumptuously decorated interior, though reserve you ticket in advance to avoid a long wait.

Slightly off the beaten track, but certainly not to be missed for fans of Gaudi’s monumental efforts, is Park Güell. Situated on a hill overlooking Barcelona (metro stop Vallcarca or Lesseps), this unique park was originally intended to be an elaborate garden city combining housing and urban park areas. With viaducts, containment walls and serpentine columns – all covered in elaborate mosaics and ceramic – it is as Gaudi as it gets.

But with the park located on the outskirts of the city and inspiring little interest, the project was cast aside, leading to the designer himself purchasing one of the two houses that were built. Such difficulties are now long forgotten, as tourists (and the ever-charming hawkers) swarm the sculpted hills to enjoy a panoramic view of the city – not to mention the bizarre sensation of having stepped into a Dr Seuss book. Be sure to stop by the old superintendent’s house for a vivid retelling of the park’s colourful – in more ways than one – history.

The bizarrely wonderful Park Güell. (Image: M Romei)

With all of Barcelona’s cultural offerings, people are certain to work up an appetite. Today, many food connoisseurs claim that Barcelona now trumps Paris itself in the culinary stakes, and regardless of whether you agree or not, you’re sure to find some incredible gastronomic offerings. Restaurants heat up at around 10pm (the Spanish like to eat late!), so forget about any early-bird specials. Catalan food is typically Mediterranean, and in addition to the staple paella and tapas, adventurous people will be wowed by local dishes such as Sarsuela (a seafood medley that is combined in a casserole with olive oil, tomato lemon and white wine), Fricandó (fillets of veal cook with plums, tomatoes, onions and mushroom) and the devilish crema catalana (like crème brûlée with a Catalan twist). For those who can manage to move after feasting, Barcelona is known for its wild nightlife, with no shortage of clubs pumping any time of the week.

While Paris has long been the place of choice for first-time travellers, Barcelona’s charms and cultural offerings run deep enough to present itself as a viable alternative to the French capital. With the bonus of beaches, this seductress is sure to capture the hearts of culture vultures, foodies and night owls.